Review: Gondolier Italian Restaurant

I got a “blast from the past” one night this week when I visited the . For me, the atmosphere reminded me of the many family-owned, diner-like restaurants dotted all over southern New Jersey on the way to “the shore.” It was like stepping into a movie I’ve watched over and over; complete with the waitress in the black and white uniform, hair swept back in a “bun” and the ever-present pencil stuck in it followed by the predictable and easily recognizable New Jersey patois... “What can I get cha doll?”

The answer to this question was a difficult one because the number of items on the menu is enormous. There are 10 different appetizers from fried mozzarella sticks to calamari; 10 salad selections with the Gondolier Specialty Salad—a Greek salad with gyro meat ($8.45) as the most popular one; pizzas with numberless sizes and toppings and the BOGO policy; the largest selection of white pizzas I’ve seen in some time including my favorite the eggplant pizza with ricotta and mozzarella cheeses. Twenty-two pasta entrees, Rigatoni, Spaghetti and Gondolier specialties, including chicken and pork Souvlaki, Calzones, Pita Sandwiches, hot and cold Subs, melts, children’s menu items and “made on the premises” Baklava among other desserts. There is enough here to satisfy most every craving.

I asked about the specials for the evening and was enticed by the Greek-style grilled lamb chops with roasted potatoes and peas ($17.95). First, let me suggest that the atmosphere is not showy, the food is unpretentious and the service is congenial and friendly. You are likely to have the waitress as well as one of the owners admire your new baby, chat you up as well as bring you extra bread without asking. It’s real homey.

Soon after being seated, I was served hot bread in one of those plastic baskets, but it was wonderful stuff to nibble on while I waited for my dinner selection. The lamb chops (five) were perfectly seasoned, juicy and flavorful. Clearly, the grill was the star because the potatoes and peas were unremarkable. Nevertheless, I wasn’t disappointed as grilled lamb is not commonplace and always a treat. I chose the house Chianti ($5.95); it was the best choice to pair with this meal though I would have been better off with an imported beer instead.

The location of Gondolier is a bit of a disadvantage, I think. The restaurant is tucked away amongst a cluster of commercial spaces that are either empty, or lack a certain vibrancy needed to keep excitement flowing.

But, here is the big tip. The Tzortzis and the Sparagis family have been running this award-winning restaurant for over 15 years. People return again and again, not for the glitz, but for the best “buy one, get one” pizza and the most delicious gyros around.